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The Kohler Chronicles

History Repeats along the Forgotten Coast

Aug 15, 2024

If you haven’t been to Port St Joe, Mexico Beach or even Apalachicola recently, you’re going to be surprised to learn what’s going on there, how it happened and why. Did you know there are now 20 restaurants in Port St Joe! How about a new $25M boutique hotel or the newly expanded Gibson Inn? How did things change from a semi-abandoned mill town with seemingly little hope with the coup de gras being the strongest hurricane to ever hit the mainland United States? Yet today some are now calling it “the next 30A?”

A Black Swan event is something so outlandish it’s beyond the imagination. Two, not one coastal towns, not just damaged, but essentially wiped clean by a Category 5 Hurricane. The winds of change that hit that infamous day have not yet stopped blowing. Where for decades everything stood still, now every morning locals awaken to see what changes the winds will bring. They know that whatever happens, there will be a very different dynamic.

The name of today’s storm is called modern Florida. The “eye of the storm” is simply called “30A” and if the first squall lines are any indication, the “eye” of this storm too has set its sights for Port St Joe and it’s going to have a big impact. What will this economic “hurricane” do? It will likely leave a path of franchises with recognizable logos and license plates not so recognizable. But it will also court new wealth to surf into beach towns in pursuit of the finer things in life and establish a cultural crossroads.

This is a story of determination, with Port St Joe, Mexico Beach, and Apalachicola poised to be the “new 30A.” Can it build and strategically plan so that one day it has more of the good and much less of the bad? It’s pretty scary to think about what is left of the culture and traditions of the original Destin vs. the new Destin. The winds here are blowing in with two new marinas, a new micro-brewery and revitalizing and expanding the historic Gibson Inn. In what used to be the Sunset Grill (once the kind of place where one could get a decent frozen mahi taco), is now the world-class White Marlin which is a restaurant serving only the freshest seafood. And this is just the beginning, with business and community leaders busy welcoming energized investors.

All of this change is within the reach of a small, innocuous Island resort seemingly in the center of it all. There is something about this island, just two miles into St. Joseph’s Bay, that finds itself in the middle of it all. When Hurricane Michael swept through, it literally cut a new entrance into St. Joe Bay and Cape San Blas in two.

Sitting about 2 miles just offshore in the heart of St. Joseph Bay lies one of Florida’s most treasured islands, both figurative and literally. If there ever was just one symbol of what is going on here, like a flagship property, this is it. It’s been known as Black’s Island since 1717 and once belonged to the richest pirate in the world, Captain “Black Sam” Bellamy. He also dressed for the role, preferring to shed the customary white wig of the day for his long black hair and red sash, carrying two flintlock pistols. He must have been quite a sight. Renowned as “the Robin Hood” of pirates for setting his captured crews free and even swapping ships, he is alleged to have captured 53 vessels. Forbes estimated his wealth to be approximately worth $120M today.

He lost everything in a Nor’easter off the coast of Cape Cod on the way to see his girlfriend. The shipwreck and much of its treasure wouldn’t be found for another 267 years. Today, his flagship island is now a Four-Star resort with people coming from around the world to experience the “real Florida.” While his ship, the Whydah Gally, couldn’t handle that storm, he would be proud that his island survived a direct hit from a Cat 5 hurricane. Not only did the island miraculously survive to everyone’s surprise but it was reminiscent of the scene in Forrest Gump when the lone shrimp boat “Jenny” survived Hurricane Hugo. Here, even the Weather Channel reported from Blacks Island in disbelief it was not only still there but so expertly built there was little structural damage. Today, the resort is thriving and some of the bungalows are available for individual purchase. Coincidentally, one can buy the entire Black’s Island today for essentially what Bellamy would have owed in income taxes… $50M.

Another character who would make his mark in Port Saint Joe was Ed Ball. Ball was more of a Scrooge than the likable pirate, Bellamy, although neither would marry. Port St. Joe was the epitome of an area under the steam of an economy fueled by the wood mill founded in 1938 by the St. Joe Company. Ball headed this company and as far as North Florida was concerned was more powerful than the Federal Reserve. In fact, folks like me will never forget he fenced off the Wakulla River which freely flows from the largest spring in the world and had been open to everyone from the time Florida’s first Governor sailed there 500 years ago. Imagine someone so politically powerful via monopolies that included a railroad, a bank, and a timber empire, that he had the time zone designation changed for his convenience. Walt Disney himself preferred to build his theme park here in North Florida, on St. Joe’s vast lands. Ball famously told Disney that “he didn’t deal with carnival people.”

Like Bellamy, Ball’s empire would be lost as well. Little did he know that in a cruel twist of fate, that after his passing none other than former Disney executives would be chosen to take his very place. They would run his company and run his empire into the ground. Now renowned as “Woke Disney” for pushing agendas and not focusing on what people want so too did the former executives do to St. Joe. When it was all over, all they owned of a once vast empire was the acreage equivalent of Bellamy’s island.

Through all of this, the person who called this area home, who really stood out, who really made a difference, and withstood the test of time is Dr. John Gorrie. In 1851, he received the patent for the first ice machine which laid the groundwork for modern refrigeration and air conditioning. It’s surprising that there isn’t a Florida County named after him.

There certainly have been some major influencers in this area. Who will it be in our time? I can’t think of another example in modern Florida where we have the chance to rebuild two coastal towns, a chance to look at what we did wrong the first time and correct it. A chance to make amends for the mistakes of the past. Are the local customs, and traditions of its people going to be largely erased like at 30A or will this area fight to keep its culture like they do at Cedar Key or for example, Cody, Wyoming? It’s a fresh opportunity that we never in our wildest dreams would have expected. Let’s pray we are able to take this opportunity for redemption and make things right.

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